Float Line vs Reel
After the shot, something must connect you to a running fish: a float line to the surface buoy, or a reel on the gun. Two schools, real trade-offs, and one absolute rule - never wrap line around your hand.
The moment a decent fish takes the shaft, the question becomes: what is it attached to? The traditional answer is the float line - gun tethered to your surface float, so a hard-running fish tows the buoy, not you, and you can let the gun go entirely. The modern alternative is the reel gun - line stored on a reel at the gun, no tether to tow, precious in kelp and tight terrain. The float system is simpler and safer for big fish; the reel is cleaner to swim but puts the fight (and the decisions) in your hands. Many experienced divers run both, by conditions. One rule overrides everything: line never, ever wraps around a hand or wrist.
⚠️ Spearfishing is freediving - and freediving has real risks. Shallow-water blackout can strike experienced divers without warning: never dive alone (one diver up watching, one down - always), never hyperventilate before a dive, and get formal freediving training before pushing depth. Tow a float with a diver-down flag - it's legally required in many waters and it's what keeps boats off you. Load a speargun only in the water, never point it at anyone, and know your local rules: spearfishing is prohibited in fresh water and in many marine areas, and species, size and season limits apply. We describe gear and technique for education only - we don't give legal or medical advice; check your local regulations and train with qualified instructors.
What it is
Two connection systems: (1) a buoyant float line from the gun butt to your surface float, and (2) a gun-mounted reel spooled with line to the shaft's shooting line - each keeping you attached to shaft and fish after the shot.
Where it shines
Float line: open water, bigger fish, current, and any dive where letting go of the gun must be a safe option. Reel: kelp, caves, wrecks and tight rock where a towed line snags, and travel setups.
How to use it
Float line: manage the slack so it doesn't loop you, let the float fight big fish, hand-over-hand the line only with the fish tired. Reel: set the drag light, let the fish run, recover line smoothly - and if a big fish demands it, be ready to abandon the gun to the float you should still be towing.
Choosing & sizing
Float line length ~1.5-2× your working depth; tough sheathed lines resist reef abrasion. Reels: capacity over complexity, and practice re-spooling - a birds-nested reel mid-fight is chaos.
Strengths & weaknesses
Float line is simple, strong and lets you release everything - but it tows and snags. The reel swims clean and handles terrain - but adds failure points and keeps you personally attached to whatever you shot.
Common mistakes
Wrapping line around a hand (the cardinal sin - fingers have been lost to it), a float line too short for the depth, reel drag locked tight, ignoring line condition until a fish finds the weak spot, and reeling a green fish straight up into your face.